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Think -- Don't Sink
by Brad Haney
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There's absolutely nothing worse than the helpless feeling you get when you are faced with the imminent possibility that your boat might sink from under you. Are you prepared for such a situation?
In the Navy, it is referred to as damage control -- the measures and techniques used to preserve and reestablish the watertight integrity of a vessel.
As in all boating activities, it pays to be prepared.
What causes a boat to sink? It may seem obvious, but when enough water enters the boat to neutralize its buoyancy, the boat begins to sink.
Very few boaters actually sink while under way, but every weekend, assistance towing companies like Vessel Assist monitor calls from nervous mariners who are "taking on water."
To avoid most problems, the design of the hull itself should provide water flow to the deepest part of the bilge. However, the limber holes must be kept clean and free of obstruction -- and because of this, the bilges should be cleaned and vacuumed frequently, to keep debris from building up. A small chain running from the bow to stern and passing through the limber holes will allow you to let water pass should an obstruction occur, just by giving the chain a jerk.
There are fewer reasons why most boats sink than you might think.
The number one cause for boats with a stern drive sinking is the packing gland, which provides a watertight seal between the inside and outside of the hull.
While it needs to be tight enough to keep the water out, it also needs to be flexible enough to allow the shaft to spin without creating excess heat. When this delicate balance is interrupted (usually it loosens, not tightens), problems result and water begins to pour in.
Learn how to tighten the boat's packing gland and keep two wrenches capable of fitting the nuts (I use two inexpensive monkey wrenches) in a spot next to the packing gland itself. Also, keep some packing gland material in a sealed plastic bag and tape it next to the wrenches. That way, you'll have everything you need close at hand to take care of a problem, should it occur.
Another problem can be with a boat's through-hull components. The through-hull fitting, valve, tail and hose should be in good repair and must be inspected annually.
Keep sharp objects away from hoses to prevent puncture or chafe damage. Operate and lubricate the valves regularly -- and when the bottom of the hull is cleaned, make sure the through-hulls are inspected from the outside.
Carry an appropriate-size tapered wooden plug for the hole it should fit, and drill a hole at the top of the plug. Pass a small piece of sewing thread though this hole and tie it right to the through-hull valve. It will then always be ready, when and if you need to plug the hole.
The majority of boats with outdrives use a synthetic boot that keeps the water out. But in the marine environment, the rubber seal can become degraded or chafe damage can occur as the engine is raised and lowered.
Inspect and service this boot often to avoid problems. Carry some small pieces of rubber about 5 inches square and some seagoing epoxy that cures when wet, in case you need to make a quick patch.
Although hull damage due to collision doesn't occur often, it is possible -- so, be prepared. If you hear a loud sound as though the boat has hit something, slow down or stop and inspect the bilges for water.
I normally check my bilges when I get on board, when I leave the harbor and once every hour while under way, just to be safe. In bad weather, I check more often.
I always carry lots of cushions that can be stuffed into a hole in the hull, should a collision occur. If you stuff a cushion into a hole, find something to push against it by "shoring" it up from behind with a water ski, a table leg, a fishing pole or even your feet, if you need to -- anything to keep water out of the boat.
Finally, buy the largest capacity bilge pump you can afford and connect it to an alarm that tells you when it is operating.
Place a good filter at the bottom of the pickup hose and place at least one anti-siphon valve in the line. The outlet should always be above the waterline.
Through a different through-hull, connect an independent system for a large manual bilge pump as well.
With any luck at all, such an emergency will never happen on your boat -- but it pays to be prepared by having the education and proper tools to take care of you, should the unexpected happen.
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This article first appeared in the October 1, 1996 issue of Sea Magazine. All or parts of the information contained in this article might be outdated. |
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