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Mexico Report
by Capt. Pat Rains
Best of the Sea of Cortez
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Measured from Cabo San Lucas up to San Felipe and from Puerto Peņasco down to San Blas, the Sea of Cortez provides about 1,600 nautical miles of coastline - plus 400 uninhabited islands. That`s almost twice as much shoreline as the U.S. West Coast. In case you don`t have the next 10 years free to explore the entire Sea of Cortez by sea or shore, you can sample seven of the best stops. These aren`t necessarily all of the marinas and fuel docks, and they`re not even the most popular on the Baja California Peninsula; rather, this sampling offers a few alternate anchorages, mini cruising grounds and coastal passages along both sides of the Sea of Cortez. Something makes each one stand out, offering the best to yatistas who venture beyond the near horizon.
1 South Stretch. The 115 n.m. stretch of Baja between La Paz and Puerto Escondido is possibly the best cruising ground in Mexico. Besides having reliable fuel docks and ample yacht services at both ends, the sparsely populated South Stretch is studded with 60 interesting anchorages and uninhabited islands, good fishing, and nice dive spots. The majestic peaks of the ancient and weathered La Giganta (feminine word for Giant) Mountains grace your western view the whole way north.
2 Within the South Stretch is Ensenada Grande. Because the uninhabited Espiritu Santos Islands are spectacularly beautiful and lie just 15 n.m. north of La Paz, the main anchorage of Partida Cove gets lots of boat traffic on weekends. Instead, cruise 2 n.m. farther up-island and into the lesser-visited Ensenada Grande (24 degrees 35.525 minutes north latitude, 110 degrees 24.683 minutes west longitude). This wide bay fans out northwest to southeast into four delightful anchoring slots - sized small, medium, large and tiny. Each spot has its own private beach and a distinct character, and mega-yachts can anchor in the middle (60 feet). At the head of the largest and best sheltered slot (Cove No. 3), you`ll find a small mangrove jungle and the start of a 1-mile hiking trail across the island, ending at a precipice overlooking cliffs on the island`s back side.
Put the dinghy or kayak in the water at Ensenada Grande so you can explore around the south arm and into the totally intimate Swallowtail Cove, or a bit farther to view the cave in La Cueva Cove.
3 Also in the South Stretch is San Jose Channel - the best place in the South Stretch to observe marine life. The channel is an incredibly steep submarine trough that funnels water and hungry sea life almost straight up - like a waterfall in reverse - from depths of 2,400 feet to a shallow 3-mile-wide shelf between Isla San Jose and the goat-herder village at San Evaristo Cove (24 degrees 52.990 minutes north, 110 degrees 38.527 minutes west). Be prepared for strong diurnal currents as you enter this 18-mile-long channel, but keep your camera at hand. We`ve seen pods of whales so thick that you could almost walk ashore on their backs.
4 San Juanico Bay is the prettiest and most interesting stop between Puerto Escondido and Santa Rosalia (both fuel stops with marinas). So much variety is packed into this 2-mile-wide bay that it`s the only must-see stop in this well-traveled region. San Juanico Bay (26 degrees 22 minutes north, 111 degrees 25 minutes west) is partitioned into four anchoring areas.
The first is a deep-water foyer just south of Punta Mercenario, the dark protruding arm forming the south perimeter of partially enclosed San Juanico Bay. The second is shallower, starting behind the submerged reef in the south half of the main bay and running northwest. Third and most spectacular is the anchorage north of Isla Tercera (Third Island) - swing carefully among the statuesque Isla Spires and lower Isla Lump. Limestone ledges surround these detached monuments, which are great for snorkeling, but watch your swing. Finally, Ramada Cove is humorously dubbed the Out House, because it`s outside and to the north of San Juanico proper. Larger than the other coves, Ramada Cove still sports a ramshackle "ramada" shade for burros among the sandstone formations on the north side of three-headed Punta San Basilio. And this cove provides the best anchorage during summer southerly swells.
Geological wonders make a snorkel dive or a stroll ashore well worth the effort. Obsidian black lava formed the south-end reef, and colorful sponges and reef fish cavort around the Spires` legs in the north end.
Instead of carting off buckets of these rare deposits and ruining San Juanico Bay for generations to come, however, I suggest yatistas leave a biodegradable note (with boat name, date, poem, etc.) tied to a memorial shrub growing above the beach in the north end.
5 Puerto Peņasco. During summer, don`t overlook this excellent - possibly the best and safest - hurricane hole in the northern Sea of Cortez. The enclosed harbor at Puerto Peņasco (aka Rocky Point to its largely gringo population) has never been run over by a full-blown hurricane because it`s so far north. Puerto Peņasco gives you a choice of several marinas, two fuel docks, at least three boatyards, good land and air links to the U.S., and lots of all-the-shrimp- you-can-eat restaurants.
The two largest marinas (full-service slips to 100 feet LOA, 12-foot draft) are pegged to the harbor`s south side with tall pylons, due to the large tidal range. Two smaller marinas and the Navy docks line the other walls. The boatyards along the north and east seawalls contain big-boat marine ways, at least one 200-ton synchro-lift and a 150-ton sling-lift.
Punta Choyas Sportsman`s Club a few miles west of the harbor has a few hundred active trailer- and small-boat fishermen. Like Kino Bay`s Club Deportivo, the Rocky Point and Choyas folks welcome floating visitors. They claim prices here are the lowest in Mexico.
6 Tiburon Island and Little Hell Canal. When crossing back and forth across the Sea of Cortez at the Midriff Island chain, you can`t avoid Isla Tiburon (Shark) - the crown jewel of the Seri Indian reservation and largest island in the Sea of Cortez. The Seri people - an almost extinct stone-age tribe - believe their souls return after death to Tiburon Island.
Little Hell (Infiernillo) Canal is shallow (about 20 feet in the middle) and runs 24 miles north to south along the east side of Tiburon Island between Sargento and Kino bays. The scary name refers to its strong currents, small whirlpools and occasional tidal overfalls. However, locals say that if you have plenty of power and a Seri guide, fishing here is heaven: roosterfish, firecracker yellowtail, white seabass, and an array of rockpile and bottom grouper. Before you set foot on Tiburon Island or attempt to pass through Little Hell Canal, however, you need to hire a Seri guide and buy a biosphere permit, both easily available at New Kino Bay`s Club Deportivo or the Seri Museum.
Hail "Club Deportivo" on VHF 24 to reach the gringo sportfishing club that is very active in these waters. The Seri guides and artisans carve ironwood figures and weave remarkable basketry that are on sale and display in the Seri Museum, operated by the state of Sonora. The sportfishing club is at the north end of New Kino, and the Seri Museum is about in the middle of town, on Mar de Cortez street between Progreso and Cancun streets.
7 The Found Coast. This 30-mile stretch of Sonora coast (Punta Tastiota to San Carlos) is dramatically scalloped with 20 small anchorages, nearly devoid of human development, all carved into the ruddy-tiered skirts of the Sierra Libre Mountains.
The two best anchorages along this mini cruising ground are Colorado and Seri Muerto. Caleta Colorado (28 degrees 16.41 minutes north, 111 degrees 25.05 minutes west) is the easiest to spot from offshore, thanks to the bright red cone-shaped headland on its northwest arm. Caleta Colorado provides the best anchorage during north winds, and the village behind the north-end beach has a road to civilization - in case you need one. Novice snorkeling is available among the black volcanic reef fingers at Colorado`s south arm.
Leaving the Found Coast and skipping 14 n.m. down the Lost Coast while staying a half mile off the points, you can bypass several rockier stops to find the entrance (25 degrees 05.11 minutes north, 111 degrees 16.97 minutes west) to the quarter-mile-wide Caleta Seri Muerto. Three seasonal arroyos keep this cove green all year long, and the brilliant white beach is segmented by monumental peaks. Snorkelers like the rocks on the north wall, and dinghies can explore the thumb-shaped bay on the opposite side. Best of all, no roads or noisy ATVs reach this turquoise gem from San Pedro, its more popular neighbor 2.75 n.m. south.
So there you have it: the best of the Sea of Cortez. If you don`t have 10 years to do it all, start here.
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This article first appeared in the July 1, 2010 issue of Sea Magazine. All or parts of the information contained in this article might be outdated. |
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