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Mexico Report
by Capt. Pat Rains
Baja Bop In Four Easy Hops
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Starting in November and continuing through May, nearly 4,000 recreational vessels from the Unites States headed south to Mexican waters - everything from fleets of small cruising sailboats and caravans of trailerable boaters towed by RVs to sportfishers and trawlers - all taking their first step off the edge.
As this unofficial class of 2009 departed, about 200 vessels traveled in loosely organized groups such as the Baja Ha Ha and FUBAR, with the crumb grabbers behind each group. Some of these yatistas traveled independently or in small groups of two and three. Independent or not they all had to traverse the rugged and mostly inhospitable Pacific coast of the 725-nautical-mile-long Baja California Peninsula.
NOWHERE TO HIDE
First-timers often assume there will be a few marinas to stop at between Ensenada and Los Cabos. This is not true. Baja’s west coast doesn’t provide an abundance of comfortable overnight or all-weather anchorages. This means most boaters heading south are forced to spend at least a couple of nights standing watch while under way.
HOP 1
L.A. TO ENSENADA: Los Angeles Harbor to Ensenada harbor is 145 n.m. The last 55 n.m. are within Mexican waters. Stay about 3 n.m. off Rosarito Beach to avoid mooring buoys and 3 n.m. east of South Coronado Island to avoid fish hatchery pens.
Ensenada is the easiest place to clear into Mexico, filling in your International Arrival paperwork at the CIS office half a block north of the harbor. Ensenada has three major marinas and several full-service boatyards. Most importantly, Ensenada is the last opportunity to top off your diesel tanks for the next 284 sea miles.
HOP 2
ENSENADA TO TURTLE BAY: The first half of this 285 n.m. hop is primarily coast. From Punta Banda, lay your courses to stay safely outside El Islote off Punta Santo Tomas, inside Isla San Martin and Ben’s Rock near San Quintin, and outside Sacramento Reef near Punta Baja.
The second half is an offshore passage across Bahia Vizcaíno. You need favorable weather to make the crossing and enough time to enter Turtle Bay by daylight.
To break this Vizcaíno passage into smaller chunks, you could anchor at the San Benito Islands or along the eastern side of Vedros Island. First-timers often balk at making an offshore passage and try to coast all the way down and around Vizcaíno Bay. You may have prevailing winds and seas on your port beam – no fun. The extra 125 miles of coasting adds about 90 miles overall to this leg.
In the north end of Turtle Bay, the village (real name is San Bartolome) has limited fuel supply, water and provisions, but it’s a reliable halfway rest stop.
Turtle Bay has no port offices, but the Mexican navy patrol may inspect your vessel and your papers.
HOP 3
TURTLE BAY TO MAGDALENA BAY: This 235-mile hop is almost the reverse of Hop 2. You can point-hop in coastal waters down past Punta San Roque, Isla Asuncion, Punta Hipolito and Punta Abreojos.
The 130 n.m. offshore leg takes you over Thetis Banks, some of the best sportsfishing in Mexico; even rookie anglers trailing a hook are often rewarded with a free meal or two. Look for where the birds are circling above a boil on the water surface.
Mag Bay’s first and easiest anchorage is located on the north end of Bahia Santa Maria, a large bay on the outside of the barrier island, Isla Magdalena. A patch of green marks the shoal entrance to an estuary, and inside is the panguero fishing area of Santa Maria.
Man of War Cove (anchorage only) inside the north end of Mag Bay is 28 n.m. farther, and from there it’s 15 n.m. more to get up the N-shaped channel to the fuel dock at Puerto San Carlos. Both these locations were damaged by Hurricane Jimena in September, so boaters should expect changes to the soundings and channel markers.
HOP 4
This 170 n.m. hop is mainly coastal, after you clear Punta Tosca. (Beware: What looks like a handy southbound shortcut by exiting through Bahia Almejas is not an option; it’s a rocky tidal gap called the Reject Canal.)
If you depart between Punta Entrada and Punta Redondo you’ll coast southest to clear Punta Tosca, the southeast corner of Mag Bay, then turn east until you’re closing with the sandy beach, again. Staying a safe distance offshore (3 to 5 miles) you can cruise the coast in relatively sheltered water from here to Cabo Falso, a distance of about 125 n.m.
Los Cabos refers to two different resort ports about 15 miles apart: Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo. San Lucas is larger and has nightlife, while San Jose is quaint and more traditional. For southbound boaters, both ports offer full-service marina slips, a floating fuel dock and nice eats ashore.
Marina Cabo San Lucas and Marinas de Baja in Cabo San Lucas are the first real slips since Ensenada, also a haulout yard for repairs. Marina Puerto Los Cabo fills the newer manmade harbor at San Jose del Cabo, a few miles around the corner, and a haulout yard is under construction there as well.
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This article first appeared in the December 1, 2009 issue of Sea Magazine. All or parts of the information contained in this article might be outdated. |
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