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Astoria, Oregon
by John Lund & Marianne van Toor
A tour through time
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Astoria, the oldest American settlement west of the Rocky Mountains, sits near the mouth of the Columbia River with the Pacific Ocean within sight. Its unique location puts it well within reach as a stop for boaters making the annual north-south migration to the Pacific Northwest.
This is a detour well worth making. Astoria has grown from its 1800s roots as a fur-trading, salmon-fishing and timber-rich community, to what may well be the next great Northwest destination for tourists and boaters alike. Visiting Astoria is like taking a tour through time in a community where history is being carefully restored, maintained and built upon to share with the world. Here’s what we discovered on our own tour of Astoria.
Getting to Astoria
There is no getting around the fact that crossing the Columbia River bar can be dangerous at times and should be taken seriously. Being properly equipped in advance with the correct guides, charts, crossing information and a well-maintained boat, however, lessens the chance for danger. As the Columbia River is a very popular boating region, thousands of anglers and boaters make the crossing annually as a matter of course. For the basics of crossing the bar, see next page.
Having crossed the bar, follow the well-marked Columbia River Channel to Astoria, located near mile 14. Follow the Lower and Upper Desdemona Shoal and then make the turn at Point Tansy onto the Tansy Range at about mile 10. You are now facing the 4.1-mile-long Astoria-Megler Bridge, connecting Oregon and Washington states. A quarter mile before the bridge, at green buoy 35A, you will see the breakwater of the Port of Astoria’s West Basin Marina to starboard.
The Port of Astoria – West Basin
The West Basin was recently upgraded and has room for more than 400 boats if side and lineal ties are utilized. The basin is dredged from 6-to 14-foot depths and can handle vessels to 100 feet. The opening is between two steel bulkheads marked with flashing red and green lights. NOAA Chart #18521 covers from the Pacific Ocean to Harrington Point and is a must for navigating this region.
Visiting boaters will find the main moorage area to port in the northeast corner upon entering the marina. There are more visitor slips available on docks B and C. The fuel dock is in front of the harbormaster’s office housed in the gray services building on the west side of the marina. Harbor staff monitors VHF 16, or you can call (503) 325-8279.
At the docks you will find 30 and 50 amp power and potable water. Washrooms, showers and laundry facilities are in the marine building above the fuel dock. Pumpouts and oil waste dumps are available. The port operates a 10-acre self-help boatyard with an 88-ton Travelift at Pier 3. Call (503) 325-8279 for a reservation.
Englund Marine Supply is located nearby and has everything you need in the way of nautical goods.
Although the East Basin is primarily used for commercial vessels, there are transient slips available. Some visitors prefer this basin, located at mile 15.6, as it is quieter, except for the barking sea lions that like to hang out there.
Crossing the Columbia Bar – the Basics
A bar (shallow water) is formed by sediment dropped by a river when the water slows down at its mouth. When prevailing westerly winds push ocean swells toward the coast, they rise up on the bar where they meet river water pushing in the opposite direction. Depending on the weather and the tide, the swells can get taller and closer together and the waves confused. This area is hazardous and must be taken seriously.
Study the U.S. Coast Pilot 7: California, Oregon, Washington and Hawaii.
Study and use NOAA Chart #18521.
Download and study the document Crossing the Columbia Bar at www.oregon.gov/OSMB/library/docs/ColumbiaMouth.pdf Contact the Cape Disappointment Coast Guard using VHF 16 or call (360) 642-3565) for crossing conditions, advice and assistance.
Be aware of the rough bar advisory signs and even if they are not up, do not cross if it appears too rough or on an ebbtide (outgoing).
Astoria – Making History
Astoria is working hard to make its old waterfront and downtown attractive, while preserving its rich history.
In the late 1800s, Astoria salmon canneries, and forest and shipping industries turned the area into the liveliest boomtown between Seattle and San Francisco. Victorian mansions graced the hillsides, and the waterfront became notorious for its wild saloons and houses of ill repute. Many a drunken patron found himself shanghaied and working as crew on unplanned sea voyages; these local melodramas are kept alive on the theater stage of “Shanghaied in Astoria,” located across the street from the marina.
The new Cannery Pier Hotel, east of the marina, was built on the site of the old Union Fish Cannery, 600 feet out into the Columbia River. Historic photos of the salmon-canning operation grace the walls of this luxury boutique hotel, and boaters are welcome to drop by and view the pictures.
Astoria Riverfront Trolley — You can walk the picturesque waterfront or hop aboard the Astoria Riverfront Trolley, across the street from the West Basin, and ride 3 miles to the end of the line at the East Basin. The Number 300 trolley, built by the American Car Company of St. Louis in 1913, was lovingly restored by a dedicated group of volunteers who have been running the car since May 1999. The $1 fare ($2 all day) includes a narration of local history and attractions as the trolley rolls along.
Columbia River Maritime Museum — This museum, on the trolley route, is a must-see for those interested in marine transportation dating all the way back to the days of dugout canoes. There are excellent displays of modern and early shipping and lots of information on shipwrecks on the Columbia River bar. This is where the term “Graveyard of the Pacific”originated, for more than 2,000 vessels and 700 lives were lost here since Robert Gray first sailed over the bar in 1792. Through interactive displays, visitors can command the bridge of a World War II warship, pilot a boat over the Columbia River bar, learn about the exciting but dangerous work of bar and river pilots, and step aboard Lightship Columbia, a National Historic Landmark that once guided ships to safety at the mouth of the Columbia River.
Astoria Column — For a good workout, walk to the top of Coxcomb Hill and climb the 164-step spiral staircase of the Astoria Column, one of the town’s most recognizable landmarks. Erected in 1926, the 125-foot concrete column is an artful summary of 14 significant events in the history of the region. The technique is known as sgraffito, an Italian Renaissance art form combining paint and plaster carvings. The viewing platform on top provides an awesome 360-degree vista.
Flavel House — The 1886 Queen Anne mansion on 8th Street, a couple of blocks up from one of the trolley stops, was the home of Captain George Flavel, who was a bar pilot on the Columbia River and one of Astoria’s most influential citizens. The tower in the attic gave George a 360-degree view of Astoria and the Columbia River so he could keep an eye on local ship traffic. The house, which has been turned into a museum run by the Clatsop County Historical Society, is one of the best examples of Northwest Queen Anne architecture.
Liberty Theatre — Strolling in downtown Astoria, it is hard to miss the majestic Liberty Theatre, a refurbished 1920s silent movie and vaudeville house that is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Today it features concerts and events; visit www.liberty-theater.org for information.
These are just a few of the many attractions to enjoy in Astoria — a place where history is making a comeback.
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This article first appeared in the May 1, 2008 issue of Sea Magazine. All or parts of the information contained in this article might be outdated. |
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