Posted: November 1, 2011
Don’t get caught in a pinch when it’s time for anchors aweigh.
Most windlasses will appreciate an occasional cleaning and lube. This doesn’t require major surgery; it is basic field-stripping that anyone can do. Use the type of grease recommended in the manual (if you’ve lost it, chances are you can download one from the manufacturer’s website), and be careful to keep friction clutches and brakes lube-free. Make these six inspections to ensure your anchor will aweigh when required.Check your windlass periodically, looking first to see if the clutch nut is secure. Vibration and pounding can loosen this nut without any obvious signs that something is wrong. Take your wrench and securely tighten the nut. Be firm, but don’t force it, or you might strip the threads.
When inspecting the clutch nut, also check the windlass for paint nicks, especially in coated horizontal windlasses (e.g., rope capstan and chain gypsy side-by-side). The horizontals usually have aluminum housings, so it’s important to address the problem immediately. Once the painted surface is breached, moisture will work its way under the paint, eventually peeling it off. The remedy is to clean, sand, prime and then paint the aluminum.
Check frequently around the fastenings for leaks, which can lead to water seeping into deck cores. You’ll be able to see leaks better from belowdecks, where water, finding its way along the through-bolts, will leave rust stains on the backing washers or nuts, even if the fastenings are stainless steel.
Most vertical windlasses (with rope and chain rollers stacked) are made of chromed bronze. If left unattended, they can develop a salt-baked crusty appearance, which can lead to corrosion. There are some good polishes on the market that will clean the chrome and put a protective coat of wax on the unit.
Because the windlass is paying out at such a rapid rate, the clutch needs to be cleaned periodically to remove salt and debris.
Don’t forget the anchor rode, which is probably attached to its chain leader with a chain splice rather than a shackle. The splice passes easily over a rope/chain wildcat, but it is prone to chafing if mud, sand, bits of shell or other grit gets between the rope and chain. It’s prudent to renew the chain splice if it’s worn.
During the season, use the windlass frequently, even if you’re not anchoring, to keep its gears lubricated; simply crank it over a few turns every couple of weeks. If the windlass sits idle, the oil will drop off the internal gears, some of which are steel and prone to rust. While you’re at it, manipulate any movable parts — clutches, brakes, chain stripper — to keep them working properly.
Once the anchor is set, always tie off the rode to a cleat. Don’t leave the windlass to hold the loads and absorb the forces that can develop in a storm. A windlass has a clutch drive, and if you let it take the shock, the clutch will eventually slip, damaging the main bearing and the shaft.
